Downstream Mekong River Cruise in the Heartland of Laos

Last Updated: September 14, 2023

The heart of Southeast Asia, known as Indochina, is one of the most intrepid travel destinations in the world. It offers a unique mix of cultures, temples, ruins, and incredible landscapes. Our Southeast Asia itinerary finally brought us to Laos, where the mighty Mekong River is the focal attraction. It stretches for almost 3,000 miles through six Southeast Asian countries and is the world’s twelfth longest river. The Laotian people call it the “Mother of Water” for the livelihood that depends on it, like fishing, agriculture, and tourist activity. 

So not only is taking a river cruise along the Mekong River a once in a lifetime adventure, but it is also the best way to get a glimpse into the rural life of Laos. If you wish to slow down time for a couple of days and drift past villages, floating markets, fishermen, and wildlife, then you absolutely must travel the Mekong River by boat. And to help you plan your own unforgettable Mekong River cruise in Laos, here is a report of our experience and useful tips.

2 Day Mekong River Cruise Itinerary and Tips

Getting from Chiang Rai to Laos

A scenic Mekong River cruise is a popular thing to do for travelers making their way through Southeast Asia. A border crossing from Thailand’s Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai to Laos will bring you to Huay Xai.

We took a bus (no Green bus service, just local) from the bus station (purchased on the spot) in Chiang Rai, and while it was not the air-conditioned buses we were familiar with, this one was charming and fun. Life is an adventure, after all! Check out our Thailand Vlog for the details of our travels to the border.

Once we reached the border, our bus driver charged us the same as the local tuk-tuk to drop us off at the border terminal. We didn’t mind, and we were able to enter with the online visa we had purchased a couple of weeks before. Others bought the visa upon arrival, and we all made our way through the terminal to wait on a local truck/taxi to take us over the #4 Friendship Bridge.

We paid for a taxi, and they proceeded to take us to Huay Xai to check into our backpacker hotel on the main strip. If you cross as a single or a couple, you will be offered the opportunity to travel alone for a higher fee, or you can sit and wait for the next couple to arrive and share a taxi. Either way, it was just a few dollars.

It may seem like a lot of effort for an overland border crossing, but the bucket list adventures that start in Huay Xai, Laos are absolutely worth it. There are two reasons to come to Huay Xai – it is the starting point for the Gibbon Experience, where you stay in a tree house staking out gibbons, and Huay Xai to Luang Prabang cruise down the Mekong River. Though the latter journey can be reversed, there is no better way to get from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang and have the opportunity to see the most beautiful places in Laos. 

Types of Slow Boat Journeys

It’s important to note that there are different types of slow boat journeys, and the one you pick will make a huge difference to your experience. The most affordable option is the public slow boat which can get quite crowded due to the popularity of the experience, but the seats on this boat are cushy – ripped off a bus and placed in neat rows. 

The next level is quite the upgrade! The Luxury Mekong River Cruise to Luang Prabang is more humble than its name, but the quality increase is exponential. The bus seats are replaced with cushioned booths that provide a bit of privacy, cruisers can spread out, and the service and amenities make the experience much more comfortable and enjoyable. The meals are provided on the boat, packages include lovely accommodations, and stops are made to visit attractions along the way.

And, of course, the ultimate way to experience the Mekong River is by booking a private riverboat cruise, which may look like a floating bohemian Airbnb with all of the perks of a luxury hotel. Obviously, this type of cruise does come with a price tag.

Since Mekong River cruising is one of the most sought-after activities in Laos, there is an abundance of boats. Nevertheless, tickets sell out fast, and we recommend booking in advance, either online or with travel agencies in Chiang Rai and Huay Xai. The majority of packages will include transportation to or from your accommodation, but you may need to book your accommodation in Pakbeng, the halfway point, separately unless specified otherwise.

Our Mekong River Cruise Experience

Boarding the Mekong River Cruise in Huay Xai

Our main objective was to slow down for a few days and observe the beauty of the Mekong River, be as much one on one with the elements as possible while being budget conscious. These criteria resulted in us picking a Mekong River Cruise with the Shompoo Cruise company. 

Before we set off downstream the winding river bends for 2 days from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang, the Shompoo team gave us a safety brief and our guide welcomed us with the first of many fun and informative Laos lectures to come.

Over a traditional Lao lunch that was enjoyed in our wooden booths on the long boat, we soaked in vibrant colors. The coffee-colored Mekong, like café Paksong, framed by luscious green hills, was breathtaking, but we couldn’t help to look forward to the dazzling sunsets the Mekong River is so famous for.

But first, a visit to a traditional village was due. The Ban Houa Phalam village, remotely located along the banks of the Mekong River is home to about 90 families. As we walked around, touring the village, grateful for the opportunity to meet its residents and learn about their rural lifestyle, many kids accompanied our group, amused by the tourists. We were fortunate to be on a boat that offered school supplies to the children, something that happens occasionally.

Before we could look at our watches to check the time, the sky began changing shades of pink, the hills turned purple, and the boat glided on the glistening Mekong to dock in Pakbeng. The small village is a popular overnight stop on most cruises. Though we were not tired physically, we promptly drifted into sleep, swallowed by our cozy bed, anticipating what tomorrow would bring.

For our accommodation, we chose Le Grande Hotel. We were the only guests on the night we stopped. The food was exceptional and the staff were friendly, welcoming, and engaging. It was one of our favorite hotel experiences. We will return to this beautiful place in the future.

Departing from Pakbeng and Arriving in Luang Prabang

We couldn’t have been happier when our second day of the Mekong River Cruise began with the group sitting around, sharing travel stories, and travel adventures. Meeting fellow travelers and sharing tips and advice about where to travel is a full-time traveler’s dream. We learn so much from others, and we are always in the “let’s go there mode.

Our first stop of the day was the awe-inspiring Pak Ou Caves. They sit above the Mekong River, guarding a holy shrine, home to thousands of golden Buddha statues. Some of the Buddha statues are hundreds of years old, placed in the caves when too damaged to remain in temples of worship.

We walked through the lower cave and then hiked up the hill to the second cave, with even more Buddha statues. There were villagers selling trinkets, but with our minimalist mindset, we passed on the purchase, but left with a smile.

The final stop before arriving in Luang Prabang got a little more interesting when it was time to see how Lao Lao, the local whiskey, is made. We were delighted to taste the samples and learn how this village makes the local brew. While it felt touristy a bit, we were not pressured to purchase and we ended up walking around the village, visiting the local temple, too.

Not long after, our 2 day Mekong River Cruise adventure came to a close as we approached Luang Prabang. And surprisingly, we felt like we had another 8-hour cruising day in us, though most people fear the cruise would drag on for too long. We would spend many days to come collecting our thoughts and sifting through emotions and imagery, filing them into the mental folder labeled ‘the Mighty Mekong’. 

The peaceful atmosphere of Luang Prabang was the perfect setting for reflection as we explored its UNESCO world heritage for the next two days. The city’s core is filled with old monasteries and French colonial architecture, a unique mixture of ancient and charming. We didn’t know it was possible for us to fall deeper in love with Laos, but Luang Prabang tugged at our hearts. 

If you are planning to travel the Mekong River by boat, we recommend you embark on the downstream route and end your journey exploring the unique things to do in Luang Prabang.